Hap Waldrop
Acme Speed Shop
Greenville, SC
http://www.acmespeedshop.com
http://www.cafepress.com/britcartrinkets

Any car that is getting a toe adjustment should be done as thrust alignment, and that iswhat the toe only tools that don't account for the rear end don't do.

Here's a really quick explanation of how you can do it as well as $100K alignment machine, I know I owned and ran for a long time.

Measure the car front and rear track, form the outside of one tire where it meets the ground to the inside of the other wheel, don't assume fornt and rear are the same.

Then with four jack stands ( I made custom stand just for this, but you don't have to) put onejack stand each side of the car one a foot or so beyond the front of the car, another a foot or so beyond the rear, tie a string between the tow stand tightly, move the stand to tighten up, now square the car within the strings at the hub center, this is where your track measure play in, on a Midget for example, the front track is aprox 2" greater than the rear, so if the front hub center is 2" from the string the rear would be 3" (half the distance of the track, now do the same thing on the other side, once you get the car squared withing the string to measure to you measure form the string to front of the rim edge at hub center height, then to the rear of the wheel, same place, example if the front measurement was 1/4" inch greater than the rear, that would mean you have have a 1/4" of toe in, opposite would be toe out. Use two pieces of vinyl floor tiles or aluminum squares under front tires on each side, with some grease and WD40, glossy magazines work too, these will act as turn table so you can adjust the car without moving it. On a car with a non quick removeable steering wheel like we have on the race car, you need to center the steering wheel and lock it into place, with a later lock wheel no problem, with a early car you different thing, some use a spring loaded tool that sits in the seat of the car and grabs the steering wheel, other use vice grip and grip the steering column against something else on the chassis to prevent it form moving but if you're careful, you may not have to do anything to brace the steering wheel straight, loosening up your tie rod jam nuts ahead of time will help.
Ok that's a really quick description of doing a thrust alignment with common tools, racers have been doing this for decades, if you pay close attention to what you are doing it's as acurate as any alignment machine, the first step in alignment is understanding it though.

My $75,000 Hunter H111 Alignment machine did it basicly the same way except with the use of laser lights, I aligned everyhting form MGBs to Rolls Royce, you name it, I've probably aligned it. When I fiquired out and really understood alignment after using this machine for years, I made a field unit to do it with so I could do this at the track if I spun the race cars, other offerings out there like the Dunlop Alignment sight machine do the same thing, in fact I recently sold one of those because I liked my set up better, it easier to do and quicker to set up. Like I said before, once you understand this, it's pretty simple really, but doing it right is the key, and just setting the toe center line is not the right way.